So I had a week off work and decided to head upcountry to explore more of Guinea. After some security checks I packed my rucksack, invited Jesus along and set off. Here's a day by day summary of my week.
Monday
I got a taxi from Conakry heading to Labé, a town in the Fouta Djallon region of Guinea. It was a 10 hour long journey with various stops for prayer, food and engine trouble. I found myself crammed between a bigger lady and a small man, falling asleep on the poor guy's shoulder every now and again as the sun went down. We arrived in Labé around 11pm and a friend of mine from the region directed me to a decent hotel where I had a good night's sleep.
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| Ready for bed after a long taxi ride |
Tuesday
Had Foude, a local guide, take me on a day's tour around the region on his motorbike. Up mountains, through small villages and visiting waterfalls. Best moment must have been climbing down the waterfall for a refreshing swim. I also made him to climb some rocks with me, and he proudly lifted me up wherever I couldn't reach, proving that he was stronger than he looked. Before heading back we also went to a small village to greet his family. Once we returned to the hotel I was exhausted after the long and bumpy motorbike ride, although I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed it.
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| Me and Foude on top of the rocks |
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| Climbing waterfalls |
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| No way we weren't going in! |
Wednesday
Took a taxi to Matakao to experience some village life, a rickety minivan travelling a dirt road in terrible condition. Before we took off I had bought a scarf, as I felt silly being the only woman without a headpiece, and as I put it on everyone started laughing and called me
married woman. Maybe I chose the wrong model... It took us 6 hours to reach the village, although somewhere along the way we had a breakdown with a boiling engine and had to sit and wait for the van to get cleared out of smoke and steam. As we arrived and they found out I didn't know anybody in the village I was immediately introduced to some important people, given a good meal and housing. I was offered to stay with Rougiatou, the chief director over the educational system in the area, and although I was offered other housing with indoor toilet and electricity I felt it was the right thing to stay with her.
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| The Suprefet and Rougiatou |
Thursday
The weekly market of the village, lots of activity and noises and smells (I was especially fascinated by the man chopping away at a cow skull). Rougiatou took me to the health clinic to let me see how they work there. I saw a few malaria cases, some malnutrition, general aches and pregnancy checks. They asked me to stay and work with them, but I kindly declined with the excuse that I was needed back on the ship, which they accepted. Rougiatou took me around on the back of her motorbike and visited various people and had several meetings. In the evening I went for a small hike around the outskirts of the village, gave some health advice and had a good evening chat under a clear starlit sky. I also discovered that fresh cow milk mixed with overcooked rice, sugar and mayonnaise doesn't suit my taste buds.
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| Thursday Market |
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| The health clinic of the village |
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| The examination soom |
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| Out on a hike |
Friday
Went to visit the other regions of the village, greeted sweet old ladies and curious children and ate lots of weird fruit. Witnessed Rougiatous and the Suprefets act of blessing, feeding the local children, which led to a conversation about religion. The Suprefet told me that if I married him (which he had been suggesting since our first meeting) I would have to convert to Islam, and I told him that would never happen. At sunset I went out for a walk and came back to the house to had a good talk with Rougiatou about life and dreams; I praised her hospitality and she praised my contentment. Before we went to bed I prayed a prayer of blessing over her and her family.
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| Some local girls eating at Rougiatou's place |
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| This was supposed to be a landscape photography... |
Saturday
Woke up with a runny stomach, which isn't ideal when looking forward to 6+10 hours of bumpy travelling without toilet facilities. I prayed to God that I would survive the day, and oh praise him, my stomach stayed quiet until I was safe back on the ship. We were 14 people sharing a 7-seater taxi, and I think it was the first time I've seen people sharing the driver's seat. We also had a whole bunch of guys riding on top of the car and I had to watch out that their feet didn't hit me in the head as we bumped along. In Labé I contacted Foude, who found me in a shack eating mango with a carpenter, and he took me on a tour around the city. I bought some more scarfs, we all shared a big platter of chicken and chips, and at night I took the taxi back to Conakry.
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| Rough roads |
All in all it was a good holiday. It was what one can expect; beautiful landscapes, outdoor showers, eating and drinking with the locals, squatty toilets, cooking over open fire, greeting the elders, playing with the children, marriage proposals, motorbikes and crowded taxis. Generally, I found that Africa isn't that exotic after all, it's same but different; we have diseases, we all eat and drink, pee and poop, there is beauty and ugliness. We share the same feelings, we joke and we cry. Africa is also ordinary.
All Love